Rangiroa -

On Monday we had time, before our flight from Papeete to Rangiroa, to have a breakfast of quiche and cafe au lait at the Marquisienne and make a quick visit to the market. I lost the close-up photo of the excellent, world-class pastry selection at the Marquisienne. Here's the front:

Air Tahiti seems to be running a modern operation. The plane was an ATR-70, seating about 60 or so people in comfort. The flight was about an hour to Tikehau and then 15 minutes to Rangiroa.

There, we and about ten Japanese tourists were picked up by the Kia Ora bus for a five minute ride to the resort. The Japanese predominate at this resort, (it looks like 50-60%) proven by the fact the menus have English and Japanese translations.

Suffice it to say, our room is what it should be, very well-designed, native style, 30-foot high pointed, thatched roof with good air conditioning, big, sliding glass doors and a plunge pool on a deck, right on the water with a view of the endless lagoon from our bed. Sunset on the right side, otherwise it would mean excessive heat in the room. Good toilet and shower. Outdoor bathtub which we don't use. Quite luxurious.

 

Our bungalow is on the right

And the Kia Ora resort, built for 150 guests, has only about 50 now, so it's nice and quiet. I must make special mention of a dish we had at our arrival lunch - called a Polynesian poisson cru, it was a sort of tuna ceviche. It was great and unbelievably generous. And it came with a free coconut shell!

On Wednesday night the buffet was extensive and the desserts very French. On the whole the food is satisfactory, not great. Quite acceptable, especially considering where the resort is. It's weak on exotic tropical fruit.

As for snorkeling, so far so good, on the afternoon of our Monday arrival we snorkeled off the resort, in and around the over-water bungalows. That wasn't bad. Scattered coral heads with a good variety. The next morning (Tuesday) we took a five-minute boat ride to the "aquarium" a place with an abundance of fish and easy snorkeling. Crystal clear water and lots of fish. Some of it is due to the fact they feed the fish.

In the afternoon, another snorkeling session in a different area off the resort. We stay in for about an hour each time. I'm not taking underwater photos because it's a complication and detracts from the enjoyment.





On Wednesday, we went on a full day trip, one hour by boat to the "Blue Lagoon" an area on the other side of the Rangiroa ring which has a beautiful lagoon within a lagoon. Not spectacular for snorkeling but absolutely idyllic tropical scenery.

And not totally without excitement. Walking from the boat to land in two to three feet of water amidst scores of non-aggressive black-tip sharks, swimming within a few feet, is a special experience, as is snorkeling with them around in abundance. I'm not fooling about the sharks.

 

 

Lunch on this remote spot was good and the fresh coconut juice and coconut meat was enjoyable as was the lesson in leaf craft. A leaf serving tray and a leaf hat demonstrated the versatility of this natural material.

The Polynesians have found a substitute for plastic

 

Barbecued fish and chicken with rice

 

Conch call to lunch

 

Climbing for coconut dessert

 

The thick fibrous husk is removed by smashing on a hardwood, pointed stick embedded in the ground. The coconut within is opened by whacking with a big kitchen knife.

Walking back to the boat through shark-infested waters.

On the way back our guides demonstrated that black-tip sharks are indeed sharks by lowering a two-foot long fish at the end of a rope into the water and getting them into a feeding frenzy. In fact, when only the fish head was left, one of the sharks swallowed that together with the knotted end of the rope which was tied around the fish head, so our guide had to cut the rope to salvage it.

Later on the way back we did a drift snorkel in Tiputa pass, where the boat dropped us off at one point, we let the relatively strong current carry us over the very good coral and fish scenery, and then were picked up by the boat at the ending point. A nice experience but not something we want as a regular  activity because we like to take it slow and linger over the underwater spectacle.

Incidentally, the one-hour boat ride to and from the Blue Lagoon has some bone-jarring action as the boat speeds across waves and the hull comes down with force on the water. Not for people without asses or with back, neck or other problems which could suffer from being shaken up and down repeatedly.

The Blue Lagoon Boat. Cultural note: the fist with thumb and pinky extended is not an insult. It is a friendly greeting gesture.

I have to say that the Polynesian atmosphere is getting to me. After the day-trip, while sitting in the chaise lounge on our deck enjoying a gin and tonic with Japanese snacks, imported by Emma, I felt a twinge of relaxation - or possibly more than a twinge.

 

Today, Thursday, we are going back to the "Aquarium" in the morning, which is the best snorkeling available here, to our way of thinking. Then a bit of resort snorkeling in the afternoon. Tomorrow afternoon (Friday) we move on to Tikehau, 15 minutes away by air and then 30 minutes by boat to the resort of Ninamu, which is all alone on a "motu" (island) with just seven bungalows, all hand-built by the owners. http://motuninamu.com/ It's supposedly a perfect place for snorkeling.