Monday, September 30, 2019

Faial, Pico and Maybe Lorenzo

 The half-hour flight from Terceira to Faial on Sunday left right on time.

The taxi driver from the airport pulled a fast one by dropping us at the beginning of the narrow street on which our Bed and Breakfast was located. After ringing bells at two wrong house we found it. The blue and white one.


Looming over everything was the news that hurricane Lorenzo would hit the Azores on Wednesday and probably cancel our flight on Wednesday to the island of Flores. At this writing (Monday evening) that seems very likely. As of this revision (Tuesday evening it is definite.) The Wednesday flight to Flores has been moved to Thursday afternoon.

We took advantage of today's (Monday) great weather to take a 30-minute ferry to the nearby island of Pico and were particularly gratified that, due to bad weather and poor visibility, while some people had been waiting for seven days to climp its extinct volcano mountain, the tallest in Portugal, we saw it immediately and clearly. That was part of an excellent three hour taxi ride which also featured the fascinating stone-wall vineyards of Pico and its seaside lava terrain from the last eruption 300 years ago.
My inability to rearrange the photos forced me to leave them in mostly reverse chronological order.
Ferry flying Portugese flag leaves Pico on way back to Faial.

Lava walk on Pico, beautifully equipped with walkways.




Fields equipped with cows

Terrain equipped with extinct volcano


Roads equipped with cows

Ocean equipped with swimming pool

Vineyard equipped with stone fences

Vineyard equipped with windmill or giant coffee pot


From B&B window in Horta on Faial: Sunrise over Mount Pico

Breakfast in Horta: Galante (like Capuccino) and croissant with fresh, riccota-like cheese

View of Horta from ferry leaving for Pico

Mt Pico, famous but rarely seen



Mt. Pico with coffee pot and vineyards

Finally, shots from our room in Horta the next morning.





And a small reward for a successful day - a white wine from Pico.

On Tuesday we tried for the 2 1/2 hour hike around the rim of an extinct volcano but it was totally fogged in.


We settled for a nice hike at a lower level and lunch at Genuino restaurant, owned by a man who sailed solo around the world twice.
Placemats show his route

Swordfish

Small fried mackerels which Emma loved and ate in their entirety

His route is also shown on a big map.

Fish soup
Alternative hike had good visibility
 


Horta in the background


Official hurricane warnings have been posted. And the marine patrol is ready.


We plan to move to a nearby hotel for the last extra night. Charming as it is, Casa Buonavento has too much neighborhood noise outside our window at night.

Before settling in for the evening we walked along the marina to look at the graphics left by sailors over the years. Hundreds of them line the walls.





END

Saturday, September 28, 2019

Azores - Stress and Success

Cocktails


Culture


Commerce


It's complicated to get to the Azores (Portugal's nine volcanic islands in the Atlantic) from New York after Delta's direct 5 hour flights stop at the end of the summer. For our 18 day trip starting on Sept. 25 we had to go first to Boston to get the direct flights of Azores Airlines. On the day of departure, finishing lunch at 1, we got a call from American Airlines that our 4PM flight to Boston had been cancelled but they could put us on the 3PM. So, on a day when NY traffic was clogged by the UN meeting we began our trip with the stress of getting to LaGuardia on time. Then six hours of waiting in Boston and arriving in Ponta Delgada too late to get our connection to the island of Terceira, our first destination. Another 6 hour wait. In sum, 27 hours traveling time to get to our destination instead of 20. Plus, on the Azores flight from Boston, the worst screaming baby we've ever experienced.
BUT, once arrived at the Hotel Cruzeiro in the lovely town of Angra do Heroismo in Terceira at 5PM instead of 7AM, all went well. We walked down to the marina and started with a Passion fruit Caparinha. Then, limpets, barnacles, octopus and Azorean fish stew, all excellent.
On the next day, we had a wonderful 8 1/2 hour survey of the island with a hired taxi.
I'm having difficulty changing the order of the uploaded photos so they are not in a complete chronological sequence.
Front desk Hotel Cruzeiro, Terceira

Typical stone sidewalk, Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

Illusion of policeman wearing a skullcap, Angra do Heroismo


Sidewalk stone mosaic

Moray eel, fish market, Angra do Heroismo

Shop street display, Angra do Heroismo

Fish market, Angra do Heroismo

Sidewalk mosaic, Angra do Heroismo


Cathedral, Angra do Heroismo

Fancy sidewalk

2 1/2 lb.. lobster

Praia de Victoria, the other town on Terceira

Windblown tourist at viewing platform

Inside volcanic cave


Rainwater pool at bottom of volcano cave

Moss-covered chimney through which lava once exploded

Volcanic steam area seen from viewing trail shown below.


Conger feel provided a wonderful fish stew at lunch on our island tour

Amazing ocean swimming area protected by, and built into, lava formations


Wild lillies line the roads along with hydrangeas.

Typical landscape

High viewpoint

Hotel corridor simulates a forest

Part of our meal on the first night in Terceira, grilled octopus

Azorean fish soup

Cracas, otherwise known as barnacles

Lapas, otherwise known as limpets


Cocktails with marina

Unusual decoration of house for sale


This dog flew with us from Boston.